Recovery Drive near full due to "preload"

... I don't know much about computers as much as I want to ...

We all started out that way. Nobody is born a computer genius. (I had to settle for good looks  😉)

May I tell you about one of the most fundamental and important skills that a computer user needs to know? Here it is: Backing up. When you backup regularly, like every day, you have no need for a recovery drive. The fact is: Comparing a backup to a recovery drive is like comparing a Lambo to a Ford Fiesta. They're not even in the same league.

A recovery drive gives you the opportunity to reinstall Windows - if it works. Only, it doesn't always work. And if your computer is physically damaged, e.g., your hard drive crashes, your recovery drive is worthless. Even when a recovery drive works - that's just the beginning. You'll still have to update Windows, then set it up the way you like; then re-install your software (you still have your license keys, right?) and set that up the way you like; then install drivers; then test everything to make sure it works properly 🙏.

Now let's compare that to restoring a backup. The kind of backup I'm talking about is an image backup. That's an exact copy of your entire hard drive, top to bottom, all compressed into a single, very large file which you can - you should - store outside your computer.  An external hard drive is a fine place to store an image backup.

It takes literally minutes to create an image backup, and literally minutes to restore one. And when you restore an image backup, your computer goes back in time to exactlythe way it was when you made the image. There's nothing to 'recover,' nothing to reinstall, nothing to setup, nothing to update. And lest you think this is some kind of black magic ... this is standard procedure in the business world. No one has time to fuss with a recovery drive!

You'll need third-party software to make image backups, and there will be a learning curve. But it's nothing you can't handle and it's so worthwhile. Imagine never worrying about losing your personal files? Imagine never needing to re-install anything, ever again? Now, that's how to use a computer with confidence., especially while you're learning.

D is indeed the Factory Recovery partition placed there by the PC maker at the factory so you can restore it to factory condition by running it according to the instructions in your Manual on the PC maker's Support Downloads web page.

If you don't care to ever restore to Factory condition you can delete it and add the space to C using free Partition Wizard's Extend feature which lets you borrow space from any place else on the drive even it it's not adjacent. See this video demonstration:

http://partitionwizard.com/video-help/extend_pa...

The 1gb partition to it's left is likely the Windows Recovery partition with the repair tools I wrote about earlier. I also explained how Windows 10 has it's own Reset without the Factory Bloatware so you dont' really need the Factory Recovery partition unless you want it.

Here it is:

This is what I see, a screenshot of both drives, recovery was less before taking it, dont know how 1.4gb was freed up, and how much the "preload" is taking up, and as for certain programs going slow, its just a guess this is why, just thought cause one program wouldnt run with less than 2gb free space.

Hi Octavio. I'm Greg, an installation specialist, 10 year Windows MVP, and Volunteer Guardian Moderator here to help you.

Please Post a screenshot of Disk Mgmt which I read like a doctor reads X-rays.  Follow the steps in tutorial so I can see everything needed to advise you.

A Recovery drive of that size is likely the factory Recovery partition which the manufacturer places there so you can restore to Factory condition from a hot key (ESC on HP) at boot or from inside Windows. This is different than the Windows Reset which only Recovers Windows 10 without the factory bloatware.

In any case a Recovery partition should not be accessible to have anything added to it, either a Factory Recovery partition or the Windows Recovery partition which is normally smaller (500mb to 1gb) and contains only the bootable repair tools used in case Windows won't start.

If you remove the Factory Recovery partition you wouldn't be able to restore to Factory condition if you wanted to without ordering media from the manufacturer. But you could still run the Windows Reset from within Windows or from it's bootable repair tools.

If you remove the 500mb-1gb Windows Recovery partition you would lose the repair tools that pop up if WIndows ever fails to start, but these are also on Recovery media you can create from within Windows here: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-10/c..., and on the bootable Installation Media you can always create from any PC here: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-10/m...

Once I see your screenshot I can advise you of your options better. If you are concerned because of poor performance then these would not have anything to do with that. You can go over this checklist to make sure the install is set up correctly, optimized for best performance, and any needed repairs get done: http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/wiki...

Start with Step 4 to turn off Startup freeloaders which can conflict and cause issues, then Step 7 to check for infection the most thorough way, then step 10 to check for damaged System Files, and also Step 16 to test a new Local Admin account. Then continue with the other steps to go over your install most thoroughly.

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask back any questions and keep me posted. If you will wait to rate my post, I will keep working with you until it's resolved.

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